Summer Costa Rica Jul 07—20, 2008
Posted by Jeri Langham
Jeri Langham
Jeri M. Langham has a Ph.D. in plant ecology from Washington State University, and after 38 years as a professor of biological sciences at California State University ...Related Trips
All nineteen of my Costa Rica tours have been unique. Although we visit the same areas, the species we encounter at each location vary somewhat, just as they do when one revisits favorite areas at home. We do take extra time to locate specialties like the male Three-wattled Bellbird, which is the bird on the cover of my personalized checklist, and the Resplendent Quetzal, which is on the back cover. About 90% of the birds on the yearly Trip Lists are the same, but where we find them and how well they cooperate varies tremendously. Choosing the highlights of any tour is always difficult, so to whet your appetite, I will select three days from the journal I write each night and mail to the participants after the tour along with a DVD of all photos taken on the tour.
July 8, San José to Reserva Biológica Carara, Hotel Villa Lapas, and owling down to Jaco. After leaving our suitcases next to Santiago Morales' large, comfortable bus at 4:30 a.m., we walked to the new breakfast place and some of you ate incredible-looking omelets. After a delicious breakfast, we loaded into the bus and headed to the Carara Biological Reserve in the Pacific lowlands. It was already light, so we could see the peaks of Poás, Barva, and Irazú volcanoes on the skyline bordering the Central Plateau that holds San José and its suburbs. Along the way, we stopped to photograph a coffee plantation and picked up Rufous-capped Warbler and Blue-crowned Motmot. At the bathroom stop in Orotina, we had close looks at White-tipped Doves, and I bought some cheese, chicken, and meat empanadas for you to sample. On all my tours, I provide opportunities to sample local foods and fruits.
In the town square, you picked up a few great birds, including Cinnamon Hummingbird, side by side Black-and-white Owls, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Rufous-naped Wren, and several common species. I showed you many mango and several teak wood plantations on the way to the bridge crossing the Tárcoles River and its dozen huge American crocodiles, hoping to be fed by tourists gawking from the bridge. We then began an incredible three-and-a-half-hours of great birding along Carara's 6 kilometer "road" trail and the detour into the forest that we had to take on our way to the fruiting tree. Especially memorable were great looks at Chestnut-backed Antbird, Black-hooded Antshrike, Spectacled Owl, Bicolored Antbird, Gray-headed Tanager, Orange-billed Sparrow, Black-faced Antthrush, and both Black-headed and Slaty-tailed trogons. You also learned about the co-evolution of Acacia and its fierce ant tenants, and differences between spines, thorns, and prickles. We encountered no other groups of birders. This is a wonderful, unpaved road through the rainforest that allows all to see many of the birds much more easily than walking a narrow forest trail. However, part of our walk involved a detour trail we were forced to take this year that worked extremely well when we found an army ant swarm, a cooperative Spectacled Owl, and both trogons. Unfortunately, only a few of you were able to see the Yellow-billed Cotinga before it disappeared in the thick foliage of the huge fruiting tree. We had superb looks at Scarlet Macaws just before we returned to the bus.
After checking into our rooms at Hotel Villa Lapas, we enjoyed a great buffet lunch and learned that like last year, ALL drinks from the bar were free. Some of us took a much-needed siesta while others tried to add birds from the porch, and did see a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron in the river by our rooms. A few of you also photographed the tent-making bats under the palm leaf. At three, we boarded Santiago's bus and he took us to a new road he discovered recently. Before we got off, we had superb views of a Gray-necked Wood-Rail. The unpaved road provided a nice open area that always makes it easier for all to see the birds. Rose-throated Becard was one of the first birds we saw, but we also had Tawny-winged Woodcreeper feeding young in its nest, Turquoise-browed Motmot, and a Red-crowned Woodpecker at its northern limit. Most also saw both the Green and Ringed kingfishers. Those who joined us for the optional evening spotlighting after dinner and completion of today's bird list were treated to Pauraques (one caught in hand by David), a couple of kinkajous, one northern raccoon, and more crab-eating raccoons than I have seen in the last five years put together. What a great start!
July 12, Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde and Finca Ecologica Monteverde. By 6:50 we were headed down to Finca Ecologica Monteverde. There are two main target birds here: Three-wattled Bellbird and Long-tailed Manakin. As we unloaded from the bus, we could hear the very distinctive songs of both species, but I know enough to try for the Three-wattled Bellbird first, since it can be very difficult to spot in the tall canopy. I was delighted to spot the first one we tried to locate, and we all had satisfying looks after the far away view yesterday afternoon. We would later get even better, closer views and great photos. Eventually, all of you also had great looks at male Long-tailed Manakins and learned how two lekking males are needed to get a female interested in mating while the next three subordinate males seldom get to mate unless they "rape" a female that wants to mate with the alpha male. Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush would be our nemesis today, as only a few people had a decent look, even though we encountered and tried to see at least half-a-dozen individuals. We did add Golden-crowned Warbler and Northern Barred Woodcreeper.
On the way back for lunch, we stopped at the Cheese Factory to watch the process of making cheese and try their guanabana and mango ice cream. Dick and Holly walked to the bridge and soon had two Sunbitterns in view. We all arrived in time to see and photograph them. Once again we ordered lunch from the viewing porch at Fonda Vela. I gave you a break until three and then we headed up toward the reserve. My instinct was to try the area that worked last year for Resplendent Quetzal because of abundant aguacatillo trees in fruit. None of last year's trees were fruiting, but David tried tapes from the road, and soon Gary spotted a male that flew before all saw it. We were able to get permission to enter the area and soon David had a male in the scope above our heads. A female was also seen. From here, we headed to the preserve entrance, but I stopped us along the way to look for Orange-bellied Trogon, and Santiago spotted a silent one. Some walked from here and the rest of us drove to the Hummingbird Gallery. Once again, the treat for most of you was standing at the nectar feeders soaking in great close-up looks at six species of fabulous hummers, ranging from the small, endemic Coppery-headed Emerald to the huge Violet Sabrewing. The smiles on your faces, as some of these birds perched on your fingers and swirled around your heads, were wonderful to see. While there we added Streak-throated Treehunter and saw about eight Black Guans.
July 17, Braulio Carillo and aerial tram. Most were up early, as usual, and birding on our Selva Verde hotel grounds where the Fasciated Tiger-Heron was seen again and two Sunbitterns were also found. After our special 6 a.m. breakfast, we headed out for our day at the aerial tram at the base of Braulio Carillo. We were met by Marvin Esquinol, our local guide. He took you to see the obligatory welcome video while I went to meet Myrna, the new manager. We were divided into two gondola groups and whisked, first below and then above the canopy in a unique marriage of technology and natural history. Each gondola had a slightly different birding experience. Myrna allowed me to be the guide of the second gondola and supplied me with a walkie-talkie. When we got off the gondolas at the upper turnaround spot, Marvin took us up a seldom-used trail. Bicolored Antbird and White-ruffed Manakin were two of the first birds to be seen. Soon we would encounter an army ant swarm and walk up to its edge. David taught you not to step on an ant column since it would cause the ants to secrete an "attack" pheromone. The ant swarm brought us Ocellated, Bicolored, and Spotted antbirds, Rufous Piha, Black-striped Woodcreeper, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren (for some), and lots of ants. Ocellated Antbirds are simply magnificent specimens. Further up the trail, we called in a Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush and a male Bare-necked Umbrellabird that permitted only half the group to see it. Walking back to the gondola platform, a Lattice-tailed Trogon finally responded to my trolling and we all watched a wonderful male. It began to rain before we were in the gondola cars, but it turned out to be a very nice experience, since the plastic cover kept the rain off us.
After the special lunch, we spent an hour with a flock that produced 20 species for us…it was one of those "Heaven and Hell" flocks where one does not know where to look next. All of us got to see the White-throated Shrike-Tanager and Russett Antshrike, as well as Olive, Black-and-yellow, Emerald, and Spotted tanagers. It began to rain as the flock melted into the forest, so we called Santiago to come pick us up. I had Santiago drive us to the verbena garden up the hill. In past years, we have looked for hummingbirds feeding in the purple verbena (actually Stachytarpheta in the verbena family) shrub flowers here. The two garden areas with verbena have been our best places for finding the incredible Snowcap. We stood under the covered porch of the old butterfly garden and managed to see three male Snowcaps and several Bronze-tailed Plumeleteers, along with beautiful Violet-crowned Woodnymphs. Just before arriving at the Selva Verde Lodge, Great Green Macaws flew over us. This was an absolutely fantastic birding day, with two of the greatest experiences of Neotropical forest birding: an army ant swarm with attending antbirds, and a huge feeding flock.